Expedition Overview
Laila Peak (6,096m / 20,000ft), located in the Hushe Valley of Baltistan alongside the Gondogoro Glacier, is globally regarded as one of the most beautiful and distinctively shaped mountains on Earth. Its slender spearhead form and striking 50-degree northwest slope have captured the imagination of high-altitude alpinists and extreme ski mountaineers worldwide.
First climbed unofficially in 1987 and officially summited in 1996 by Italian climbers, Laila Peak represents a pure alpine technical objective. The route ascends steep snow ramps, ice gullies, and mixed flutings on fixed lines, terminating on a razor-sharp summit pinnacle that commands breathtaking vistas of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Chogolisa, and Mashbrum.
Hunza Adventure Tours delivers specialized expedition logistics for Laila Peak. Our Balti high-altitude crews from the Hushe Valley provide authentic route knowledge, climbing clearances, camp logistics, porters, solar charging, emergency oxygen, and nutritious hot meals.
Expedition Highlights
- Climb the iconic spearhead summit (6,096m) celebrated as the world's most beautiful mountain
- 12 dedicated climbing days for fixed rope placement, snow rotations & summit pushes
- Scenic 2-day approach trek from Hushe village through Saicho to Gondogoro Base Camp
- Complete Base Camp logistics: heated dining tent, individual private tents & solar power
- 40 kg personal cargo allowance transported to Laila Peak Base Camp
- Professional high-altitude expedition chef & nutritious hot meals
- Government climbing royalty clearances & ACP Liaison handling (DTS #ID-1994)
- Ideal alpine objective for extreme ski mountaineering and steep ice climbing
High Camps Profile (Northwest Face Route)
Gondogoro Glacier
Staging hub located near the moraine with heated mess tent, solar charging station, and fresh water stream.
Lower Snow Fluting
Pitched on carved snow platforms below the main 45-50° northwest face snow and ice couloir.
Upper NW Ridge Crest
High summit assault camp pitched on the exposed snow crest beneath the final 55° summit needle.
Laila Peak Pinnacle
The sharp needle summit point with unmatched views over K2, Gondogoro La, and Masherbrum.
25-Day Expedition Itinerary
Arrival in Islamabad – Welcome & Transfer to Hotel
Welcome to Pakistan! Reception by the Hunza Adventure Tours team at Islamabad International Airport and transfer to hotel. In the afternoon, assemble for expedition briefing and document verification.
Alpine Club of Pakistan & Ministry Briefing
Official expedition briefing at the Ministry of Alpine Affairs / ACP. Introduction to military Liaison Officer and final permit clearances.
Flight to Skardu or Scenic Drive via Karakoram Highway
Scenic mountain flight past Nanga Parbat to Skardu (or 2-day scenic highway drive via Babusar Pass / KKH in case of weather cancellation).
4x4 Jeep Drive from Skardu to Hushe Village (Trailhead)
Thrilling 5-6 hour 4x4 drive through Khaplu and the Shyok/Hushe river canyons to Hushe village (3,050m), the famous mountaineering village of Baltistan.
Trek from Hushe via Saicho to Laila Peak Base Camp
2-day trek up the Gondogoro Valley via Saicho campsite (3,350m) along glacial moraines, arriving at Laila Peak Base Camp (4,150m) beneath the soaring needle spire.
12 Days of Acclimatization, NW Face Fixing & Laila Peak Summit Push (6,096m)
12 dedicated days for Puja ceremony, establishing Camp 1 (4,800m) and Camp 2 (5,400m), fixing steep 50° ice lines on the northwest face, and pushing for the summit of Laila Peak (6,096m).
Base Camp Cleanup, Return Trek to Hushe & Drive to Skardu
Base Camp dismantling, Leave-No-Trace cleanup, trek back to Hushe village, and 4x4 drive to Skardu for celebratory hot showers and gala dinner.
Rest & Sightseeing Day in Skardu
Free rest day in Skardu. Visit Kharpocho Fort, Cold Desert Sarfaranga, and local handicraft bazaars.
Flight to Islamabad, ACP Debriefing & International Departure
Morning flight from Skardu to Islamabad. Official debriefing at the Alpine Club of Pakistan and transfer to Islamabad International Airport for onward flights.
Expedition Photo Gallery
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Base Camp Services & Logistics
Included BC Logistics
- Government Royalty Climbing Permit & Official LO fees
- Military Liaison Officer kit, allowance & insurance
- 40 kg personal cargo transport per climber to Base Camp (25 kg return)
- Deluxe heated mess tent, solar power charging station & private sleeping tents at BC
- Professional high-altitude expedition chef & full kitchen crew
- 3 nutritious hot meals daily + unlimited tea, coffee & high-energy snacks
- Emergency Gamow hyperbaric chamber & medical oxygen at BC
- Satellite communication (Thuraya / Iridium) emergency terminal access
- All domestic flights, hotel accommodations in Islamabad & Skardu, and private 4x4 jeeps
Not Included
- International flights to/from Islamabad
- High altitude climbing Sherpa / HAP support (available on request)
- High altitude technical ropes, ice screws & snow pickets
- Personal technical climbing gear, boots & down suits
- Mandatory helicopter evacuation & extreme medical rescue insurance
- Personal tips for Base Camp kitchen staff and porters
Essential Expedition Gear Checklist
- Technical Double Boots (La Sportiva G2 / Phantom 6000)
- Rigid / semi-rigid technical ice climbing crampons (mono or dual point)
- Sturdy alpine trekking boots for Gondogoro Glacier
- Camp booties & merino wool climbing socks (4+ pairs)
- High-loft expedition down jacket & down climbing pants
- Heavyweight expedition down sleeping bag (-25°C rated)
- Gore-Tex Pro waterproof hardshell jacket & pants
- Technical ice climbing gloves, mitts & windproof balaclava
- Pair of technical ice climbing axes (e.g. Petzl Nomic / Quark)
- Ice screws (13cm–21cm), snow pickets & dynamic ropes
- Climbing harness, ascender (Jumar) & descender (ATC / Figure 8)
- Mountaineering climbing helmet & UV Cat 4 glacier sunglasses
Terms & Conditions
Hunza Adventure Tours promulgates its terms and conditions for any kind of expedition, mountaineering, trekking, and base camp logistic support operated by the company in Pakistan.
Expedition Reservation & Payment Terms
- 40% advance deposit is required upon booking confirmation to secure climbing permits, Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) clearances, military Liaison Officer assignments, and cargo allocations.
- The full balance settlement must be cleared upon arrival in Islamabad before the official Ministry briefing.
- Advance deposits are directly deposited into our official bank account via international wire transfer.
- Permit royalty fees are non-refundable once approved and processed by the Ministry of Tourism.
Official Corporate Bank Account Details
Direct all expedition wire transfers to Bank Alfalah Pakistan:
Deposits covering government climbing royalties, ACP permits, and environment fees are non-refundable once committed. Refunds on remaining logistical balances are subject to written notice and expenses incurred.
Individual private member sleeping tents are provided at Base Camp. In city hotels, twin sharing applies; single hotel room supplement is available on request.
No refund is given to climbers who decide to leave Base Camp early or abandon their summit bids prior to the scheduled 25-day conclusion.
Safety protocols, environmental Leave-No-Trace rules, and military Liaison Officer directives must be strictly observed at all times.
Technical mountaineering demands patience, endurance, and adaptability to Karakoram weather windows and steep ice conditions.
All expedition members must have valid high-altitude mountaineering insurance covering helicopter rescue up to 6,100m and medical repatriation.
Climbers have autonomy over high-altitude climbing tactics and route fixing above Base Camp in coordination with other climbing teams.
Climbers must submit full passport copies, climbing resumes, and bio-data at least 60 days prior for Ministry clearances and Mountaineering Visa approvals.
High-altitude mountaineering involves inherent objective dangers including avalanches, crevasses, and altitude illness. Participants undertake climbs at their own risk.
While domestic flights between Islamabad and Skardu are booked, land transit via the Karakoram Highway is maintained as standard backup.
Frequently Asked Questions
What technical experience is needed for Laila Peak?
Laila Peak requires proficient steep ice and mixed climbing skills. Climbers must be confident front-pointing on 45–55 degree ice and snow slopes for extended durations, using twin ice tools, placing ice screws/pickets, and rappelling steep faces.
Can Laila Peak be climbed and skied?
Yes! Laila Peak is world-famous for extreme ski mountaineering. Several world-class ski alpinists have completed ski descents of its 50-degree northwest face. We offer specialized ski expedition logistics including ski gear cargo handling.
What base camp facilities are provided?
We provide a deluxe heated dining mess tent with carpeted flooring, individual member sleeping tents with thick foam mattresses, 24/7 solar generator charging stations, satellite comms terminal, professional high-altitude kitchen staff, and fresh nutritious meals throughout the 25-day expedition.
How are medical emergencies handled at Base Camp?
Our Base Camp is equipped with a portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow Bag), medical oxygen cylinders, comprehensive trauma & high-altitude medication kits, pulse oximeters, and direct satellite link to Askari Aviation military helicopter rescue services.
